For CCNA and CCNP candidates, it’s hard not to laugh the first time you hear the phrase “router on a stick”. Let’s face it, that’s a pretty silly term. But as those who have passed the CCNA and CCNP exams know, this is a vital exam topic that you must know how to configure and troubleshoot.
Basic Cisco theory states that for hosts in different VLANs to communicate, a Layer 3 device must be involved to handle the routing between the VLANs. That device is a router, and there are special considerations that must be taken into account for both the physical router itself and the configuration you’ll be writing.
The router will be connected to a switch via a FastEthernet port (or higher). The router port cannot be a regular Ethernet port, since the router port will need the ability to send and receive data at the same time.
The configuration of the interface is where things get interesting. Let’s say we have two VLANs that will be using router-on-a-stick to communicate.
Here is the VLAN information:
VLAN 20: 20.20.20.0 /24
VLAN 40: 40.40.40.0 /24
The port on the switch that will be connected to the router’s FastEthernet port must be in trunking mode, and you must know the trunking protocol in use. We’ll go with the Cisco-proprietary ISL here.
The physical FE port on the router will not have an IP address. The use of router-on-a-stick mandates the use of logical subinterfaces. While we don’t have to use the VLAN numbers for the subinterface numbers, I’ve found this helps you keep the interfaces straight. One subinterface must be given an IP address in VLAN 20, and the other will have an IP address in VLAN 40.
After creating subinterfaces fast 0.20 and fast 0.40, the config looks like this:
interface fastethernet0
no ip address
interface FastEthernet 0.20
ip address 20.20.20.1 255.255.255.0
interface FastEthernet 0.40
ip address 40.40.40.1 255.255.255.0
Believe it or not, you’re almost done! Now we need the encapsulation statement under each subinterface. The subinterface statement must reflect both the VLAN number and the encapsulation type being used. When we’re finished, the config would look like this:
interface fastethernet0
no ip address
interface FastEthernet 0.20
ip address 20.20.20.1 255.255.255.0
encapsulation isl 20
interface FastEthernet 0.40
ip address 40.40.40.1 255.255.255.0
encapsulation isl 40
And that’s it! Your hosts in VLAN 20 should now be able to communicate with hosts in VLAN 40, and vice versa.
A couple of final troubleshooting points – the most common error with router-on-a-stick is to put the wrong vlan number in the encapsulation statement. Also, make sure you have configured the router’s IP address in VLAN 20 as the default gateway for hosts in VLAN 20, and do the same for VLAN 40.
I hope you’ve enjoyed this look at router-on-a-stick. While the name may get a chuckle out of you, it’s still used in quite a few networks out there, and knowing how to configure and troubleshoot it will get you that much closer to earning your CCNA and CCNP.
Chris Bryant, CCIE #12933, is the owner of The Bryant Advantage (www.thebryantadvantage.com), home of free CCNA and CCNP tutorials, The Ultimate CCNA Study Package, and Ultimate CCNP Study Packages. Video courses and training, binary and subnetting help, and corporate training are also available.
For a FREE copy of his latest e-books, “How To Pass The CCNA” or “How To Pass The CCNP”, send a request to chris@thebryantadvantage.com today !
Digital Point’s Coop Advertising network is really nothing more than a large automated link exchange. Originally it was supposed to be an automated link exchange for webmaster forums running vBulletin software. How it works is you load code on your pages which shows links to other sites, and then those sites load code that shows links to your site. Its all done server side, all random, so to a visitor or search engine it looks like a hard coded link on your website.
Digital Point approached me about being one of the inaugural members way back when. They explained the way it’d work is that ads would only show on the vbulletin pages for viewing a single post by itself.. Since viewers rarely if ever view such pages you wouldn’t be showing yet another ad to the viewers, but search engines do view such pages and so everyone would get the benefit of additional backlinks.
The code assigns weight based on things like traffic and Google PageRank, you can also get weight from referring people. The higher your weight the more often your ad will be shown. Also, unlike a standard link exchange, the site you put the links on does not have to be the same site you promote with your links. This is an ingenious idea and does make the network more useful than had it been a standard exchange.
I signed up (it was and is free after all) and it worked well at first with the small group of less than 10 webmaster forums, however the network was then opened up to more or less any site running PHP. Imagine my surprise when checking my backlinks I saw links from places such as a fishing site. What does website publishing have to do with fishing? Nothing, so I took the ads down, and lost a few thousand unrelated backlinks.
We all have our own limits and definitions of what is black hat and what isn’t, and this is one of those things where you’ll have to decide for yourself. I personally would not run this on any site where a Google ban would seriously hurt me. However, Google has been erratic lately, some sites simply do not rank well no matter what you do. In these cases you might as well join the ad network as it’s not like it’ll hurt you in Google and ad network sites do quite well in Yahoo and MSN, even Google sometimes.
Yes, make no mistake about it, using this network you can easily get thousands of links pointing to your website, and that is going to help you. However TrafficPower, the infamous SEO company, did something similar with their client’s web pages and every single one of them was banned from Google eventually. I believe their system was javascript based and so easier to detect, but Google has a lot of smart guys working for them and I’m sure they will be able to build an algorithm to detect and ban sites using this system. Due to all of the above, my advice is to use this network at your own risk. I’ve seen some amazing results produced with this ad network, but in many ways it reeks of spam, so you will have to decide if a Google ban is worth the risk.
Join The Digital Points Text Link Advert Network Today (FREE)
(http://textlinkadvert.session9.co.uk/)
When is 3 percent better than 6 percent? Yeah, we all know the answer, but only until the prices of the securities we already own begin to fall. Then, logic and mathematical acumen disappear and we become susceptible to all kinds of special cures for the periodic onset of higher interest rates. We’ll be told to sit in cash until rates stop rising, or to sell the securities we own now, before they lose even more of their precious Market Value. Other gurus will suggest the purchase of shorter-term bonds or CDs (ugh) to stem the tide of the perceived erosion in portfolio values. There are two important things that your mother never told you about Income Investing: (1) Higher Interest Rates are good for investors, even better than lower rates, and (2) Selecting the right securities to take advantage of the interest rate cycle is not particularly difficult.
Higher Interest Rates are the result of the Government’s efforts to slow a growing economy in hopes of preventing an appearance of the three headed inflation monster. A quick glance over your shoulder might remind you of recent times when the government was trying to heal the wounds of a misguided Wall Street attack on traditional investment principles by lowering interest rates. The strategy worked, the economy rebounded, and Wall Street is trying to scramble back to where it was nearly six years ago. Think about the impact of changing interest rates on your Income Securities during the past five years. Bonds and Preferred Stocks; Government and Municipal Securities; they all moved higher in Market Value. Sure you felt wealthier, but the increase in your Annual Spendable Income got smaller and smaller. Your total income could well have decreased during the period as higher interest rate holdings were called away (at face value), and reinvestments were made at lower yields!
How many of you have mental bruises from the realization that you could have taken profits during the downward trajectory of the cycle, on the very securities that you now lament over. The nerve; falling below the price you paid for them years ago. But the income on these turncoats is the same as it was in 2004, when their prices were ten or twenty percent higher. This is the work of Mother Nature’s financial twin sister. It’s like acorns, snowfalls, and crocuses. You need to dress properly for seasonal changes and invest properly for cyclical changes. Remember the days of Bearer Bonds? There was never a whisper about Market Value erosion. Was it the IRS or Institutional Wall Street that took them away?
Higher rates are good for investors, particularly when retirement is a factor in your investment decisions. The more you receive for your reinvestment dollars, the more likely it is that you won’t need a second job to maintain your standard of living. I know of no retail entity, from grocery store to cruise line that will accept the Market Value of your portfolio as payment for goods or services. Income pays the bills, more is always better than less, and only increased income levels can protect you from inflation! So, you say, how does a person take advantage of the cyclical nature of interest rates to garner the best possible income on investment quality securities? You might also ask why Wall Street makes such a fuss about the dismal bond market and offers more of their patented Sell Low, Buy High advisories, but that should be fairly obvious. An unhappy investor is Wall Streets best customer.
Selecting the right securities to take advantage of the interest rate cycle is not particularly difficult, but it does require a change in focus from the statement bottom line… and the use of a few security types that you may not be 100% comfortable with. I’m going to assume that you are familiar with these investments, each of which could be considered (from time to time) for a spot in the well diversified Income Portion of your Asset Allocation: (1) The traditional individual Municipal and Corporate Bonds, Treasuries, Government Agency Securities, and Preferred Stocks. (2) The eyebrow raising Unit Trust varietals, Closed End Funds, Royalty Trusts, and REITs. [Purposely excluded: CDs and Money Funds, which are not investments by definition; CMOs and Zeros, mutations developed by some sicko MBAs; and Open End Mutual Funds, which just can't work because they are really "managed by the mob"… i.e., investors.] The market rules that apply to all of these are fairly predictable, but the ability to create a safer, higher yielding, and flexible portfolio varies considerably within the security types. For example, most people who invest in Individual bonds wind up with a laundry list of odd lot positions, with short durations and low yields, designed for the benefit of that smiling guy in the big corner office. There is a better way, but you have to focus on income and be willing to trade occasionally.
The larger the portfolio, the more likely it is that you will be able to buy round lots of a diversified group of bonds, preferred stocks, etc. But regardless of size, individual securities of all kinds have liquidity problems, higher risk levels than are necessary, and lower yields spaced out over inconvenient time periods. Of the traditional types listed above, only preferred stock holdings are easily added to during upward interest rate movements, and cheap to take profits on when rates fall. The downside on all of these is their callability, in best-yield-first order. Wall Street loves these securities because they command the highest possible trading costs… costs that need not be disclosed to the consumer, particularly at issue. Unit Trusts are traditional securities set to music, a tune that generally assures the investor of a higher yield than is possible through personal portfolio creation. There are several additional advantages: instant diversification, quality, and monthly cash flow that may include principal (better in rising rate markets, ya follow?), and insulation from year-end swap scams. Unfortunately, the Unit Trusts are not managed, so there are few capital gains distributions to smile about, and once all of the securities are redeemed, the party is over. Trading opportunities, the very heart and soul of successful Portfolio Management, are practically non-existent.
What if you could own common stock in companies that manage the traditional Income Securities and other recognized income producers like real estate, energy production, mortgages, etc.? Closed End Funds (CEFs), REITs, and Royalty Trusts demand your attention… and don’t let the idea of “leverage” spook you. AAA + insured corporate bonds, and Utility Preferred Stocks are “leverage”. The sacred 30-year Treasury Bond is “leverage”. Most corporations, all governments (and most private citizens) use leverage. Without leverage, most people would be commuting to work on bicycles. Every CEF can be researched as part of your selection process to determine how much leverage is involved, and the benefits… you’re not going to be happy when you realize what you’ve been talked out of! CEFs, and the other Investment Company securities mentioned, are managed by professionals who are not taking their direction form that mob (also mentioned earlier). They provide you the opportunity to have a properly structured portfolio with a significantly higher yield, even after the management fees that are inside.
Certainly, a REIT or Royalty Trust is more risky than a CEF comprised of Preferred Stocks or Corporate Bonds, but here you have a way to participate in the widest variety of fixed and variable income alternatives in a much more manageable form. When prices rise, profit taking is routine in a liquid market; when prices fall, you can add to your position, increasing your yield and reducing your cost basis at the same time. Now don’t start to salivate about the prospect of throwing all your money into Real Estate and/or Gas and Oil Pipelines. Diversify properly as you would with any other investments, and make sure that your living expenses (actual or projected) are taken care of by the less risky CEFs in the portfolio. In bond CEFs, you can get un-leveraged portfolios, state specific and/or insured Municipal portfolios, etc. Monthly income (frequently augmented by capital gains distributions) at a level that is most often significantly better than your broker can obtain for you. I told you you’d be angry!
Another feature of Investment Company shares (and please stay away from gimmicky, passively managed, or indexed types) is somewhat surprising and difficult to explain. The price you pay for the shares frequently represents a discount from the market value of the securities contained in the managed portfolio. So instead of buying a diversified group of illiquid individual securities at a premium, you are reaping the benefit of a portfolio of (quite possibly the same) securities at a discount. Additionally, and unlike regular Mutual Funds that can issue as many shares as they like without your approval, CEFs will give you the first shot at any additional shares they intend to distribute to investors.
Stop, put down the phone. Move into these securities calmly, without taking unnecessary losses on good quality holdings, and never buy a new issue. I meant to say: absolutely never buy a new issue, for all of the usual reasons. As with individual securities, there are reasons for unusually high or low yields, like too much risk or poor management. No matter how well managed a junk bond portfolio is, it’s still just junk. So do a little research and spread your dollars around the many management companies that are out there. If your advisor tells you that all of this is risky, ill-advised foolishness… well, that’s Wall Street, and the baby needs shoes.
The final article in this Income Investing trilogy will be on managing the Income Portfolio using the Working Capital Model.
Steve Selengut
www.sancoservices.com
Professional Portfolio Management since 1979
Author of: “The Brainwashing of the American Investor: The Book that Wall Street Does Not Want YOU to Read”, and “A Millionaire’s Secret Investment Strategy”
It’s surprisingly simple to get started posting your very first auction on eBay. Here’s what you need to do.
Step 1: Open an eBay seller’s account.
If you’ve bought things on eBay, then you already have an account – just log in with it and click ‘Sell’ in the toolbar at the top of the page, then click ‘Create a seller’s account’. If you’ve never used eBay before, then you’ll need to open an account first using the ‘register’ link underneath the toolbar, and then click ‘Sell’ and ‘Create a seller’s account’. The eBay site will then guide you through the process. For security, this may involve giving card details and bank information.
Step 2: Decide what to sell.
For your first little experiment with eBay, it doesn’t really matter what you sell. Take a look around the room you’re in – I’m sure there’s something in there that you’re not all that attached to and could put in the post. Small books and CDs are ideal first items.
Step 3: Submit your item.
Click ‘Sell’, and you’re on your way to listing your item.
The first thing you need to do is choose a category – it’s best to just type in what the item is and let eBay choose for you. Next, write a title and description. Include key words you think people will search for in the title box, and all the information you have about the item in the description box.
Now set a starting price. $0.01 is the best starting price, as it draws people in to bid who otherwise wouldn’t, and items will almost never finish at such a low price. The next thing to set is the duration of the auction: 3, 5, 7 or 10 days. This is up to you: longer sales will usually get more bids, but will also seem to drag on forever. If you’ve taken a picture, add it now – items with pictures always sell for more. Finally, tick the payment methods you will accept (just PayPal is best for now), and where you will post to (limit yourself to your own country to begin with). Submit and you’re done!
Step 4: Wait for it to sell.
This is just a matter of sitting back and letting eBay do its thing – buyers will find your item and leave bids on it. Some bidders might email you with questions about the item, and you should do your best to answer these questions as quickly as you can.
Remember that if your item doesn’t sell then you can list it again for free.
Step 5: Collect payment and post it.
eBay will sent your buyer emails guiding them through the process of sending you payment for the item. Make sure you have the money before you send anything.
Once you’ve got the payment, all you need to do is pack the item for posting (make sure to use some bubble wrap), take the buyer’s address from the confirmation email eBay sent you, and write it on the parcel. Put some stamps on, post it, and you’re done!
I hope you enjoyed selling your first item. Now that you’re starting to get into it, the next email will give you a checklist of things you need to do to be a successful seller.
Kirsten Hawkins is an Ebay and internet auction enthusiast from Nashville, TN. Visit www.auctionseller411.com/ for more great tips on how to make the most from Ebay and other online auctions.
